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Your guide to Lamu, Kenya: All you need to know.
On the 20th of September 2019, I was at OR Tambo International Airport, making my way to
Kenya for the very 1st time. What made it even more special was that I was hosting a group
with my sister, Senzi. Sharing the gift of travel has always been my goal, and luckily for me, I
knew I would fall deeply in love with Kenya and the people, mostly Lamu Island, a small
town on the coast of Kenya. Honestly, I remember 1st genuinely falling in love with Lamu
after seeing Lulama Wolf share her experience of it. Of course, when Senzi (my sister)
visited a year before I went, I was already ready with a few words such as “Pole Pole”,
meaning “slowly slowly”, and “Karibu Kenya”, meaning you’re welcome to Kenya. What
makes Lamu Tamu (as locals would call it) so special is 1stly the ease of the locals
there…from the moment you land in Lamu at the Lamu Town Harbour and your “Uber”, aka
your boat, fetches you, you’re greeted with smiles and great hospitality. We stayed in Shela,
just a short boat ride from Old Town Lamu, away from the town’s hustle, which made our
trip feel magical. 2ndly, the architecture is breathtaking, with many buildings built in coral
stone and mangrove timber, and the town indeed has preserved its Swahili culture and
foods, too. Below is a comprehensive guide for when you plan your 1st trip to Lamu, Kenya;
Travelling to Lamu, Kenya from South Africa:
Fly from OR Tambo International Airport to Nairobi using either RwandAir, Ethiopian Airlines
or Kenya Airlines (I’ve only used this once, but they have the best prices at times)
Book a connecting flight from Nairobi to Lamu, Kenya (Manda Airport) using either Jambojet
or Skyward Express (less than a 2hr flight)
Where to stay:
An array of unique homes is available to book on Airbnb and Bookings.com. I recommend
staying in Shela rather than Lamu Old Town.
Things to do:
• Visit Peponi Hotel for a meal, sunset vibes & a drink
• Book a day experience for sailing/sunset dhow cruise
• Visit Lamu Town for shopping & some local cuisine at local shops. Also, use this for those
“famous” Instagram images with the donkeys. [they are used for transport & Lamu is super
busy, but ask nicely, and you should be able to get the shot]
• Visit the floating bar
• Visit Matondoni Village, which is known for the weaving where many locals create hats,
bags, etc
• Get henna done on your hands
• Do a Lamu city tour
• Book a traditional cooking class
• Book a yoga session
• “Pole Pole” which is why you would be here, just relax.
A few facts:
It’s a predominantly Muslim town, but don’t worry- this doesn’t mean you can’t wear your
shorts. However, I suggest you dress more modestly in Lamu Town, as locals might stare.
• Get Mpesa as soon as you land in Nairobi and a local SIM, as many transactions will
happen via Mpesa.
• Alcohol isn’t easily found, but ask your house manager or chef for a contact, and a few
restaurants do serve alcohol, too.
• Try to learn a few Swahili words to connect with the locals.
• It’s humid & hot, so pack comfortable clothing; long, light dresses are the best and many
stores will sell these.
Estimated costs of the whole experience: *This is subject to change from the time of
publication because of inflation, etc.
Flights to Nairobi from OR Tambo +- R6500 return
Flights to Lamu +- R2500 return
Accommodation for +- 4 nights R1500 a night (min) – R3500 a night [ depends on group
booking etc.) Most accommodations come with staff, security, a chef, etc., but are
reasonable when you book and ask for rates for Africans.
Use social media, Airbnb or other booking sites when planning your trip.
Local spots are reasonable. More expensive spots charge around R150 for burgers and
chips, so choose with your pockets.
I hope this has helped you, and I can’t wait to see you explore Lamu Tamu soon.
Xoxo
Thobi